List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements
Introduction

1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender
Introduction
Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship
Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' as poetic text
Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen's abject woman
Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother
Notes

2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age
Introduction
'Active ageing', youthfulness and fashion
'Fashion For All Ages' and the new old model army
Race and reversing convention
Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place
Notes

3. (Un)Gendering the runway
Introduction
Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion
The advent of transgendered models
The abject trans-model
Between abjection and acceptance
'Come into the (trans)garden': The heterotopia of fashion
The authentic self
Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry
Tokenism versus activism
Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity
Notes

4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities
Introduction
Andrea Giacobbe and 'Simplex Concordia'
Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg
Compromising race and diversity
A 'genuine cyborg manifesto'?
Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities
Notes

Epilogue