Chelsey Byrd Lewallen

Case studies show examples of professional practice, discussing alternative ways of working.

Preface
Introduction

1. How to Use this Book and Tools of the Trade
How to Use this Book
Tools of the Trade
Types of Pins
Types of Rulers
Marking Tools
Needles
Thread
Machines
Pressing/ Ironing
Hardware and Tools

2. Working with Alterations, Repairs and Clients
Before you get started
The Bare Necessities Sewing Space
The Deluxe Sewing Space
Step Two: The Logistics of Clothing Alterations and Repairs
Finding the Problem
Step Three: Working with clients
Identifying fabric
Fiber Content
Structure: Wovens, Knits, and Nonwovens

3. Bottom Hems
Shortening
Measuring Pants, Shorts, Skirts and Dresses for Hemming
Serge and Blind Hem Three Methods:
Blind Hemming Machine, Home Machine Blind Hem, or Hand Stitch
Twice Turn Hem
Cadet Cut Hem
Knitwear Coverstitch Hem
Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle
Twice-Turned Hem On Eveningwear and Formalwear
Napkin Roll Hem
Hand Stitch Hems: Cross Stitch, Vertical Hem Stitch, Prick/ Pick Stitch
Cross Stitch
Vertical Hem Stitch
Prick/ Pick Stitch
Lengthening Bottom Hems:
Maxing Out
Adding Fabric
Bias Tape
Adding Fabric
Adding Lace

4. Top Hems
Knitwear Coverstitch
Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle
Shirttail Hem
Lined Suit Jacket Hem
Unlined Suit Jacket Hems
Maxing Out Seam Allowance
Lengthening Suit Jacket Hems

5. Taking in Bottoms
Back Gap
Waistbands: Using Elastic
Side Seams/ Outseams & Inseam Tips
Sample Measurement Table
Inseams
Darts/Pleats/ Tucks
Ease/ Gathers
Taking in a Skirt or Pant with a Side Zipper
Side Seams
Inseams
Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets
Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance
Waistbands: Using Elastic
Waistbands: Using Gussets/ Farbic Panels

6. Letting Out Bottoms
Side Seams
Inseams
Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets
Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance

7. Jeans
Taking in the Center Back/ Back Gap: Jeans
Jeans Hem with Option to Distress
Original Jean Hem
Taking in the Outseams/ Inseams

8. Taking in Tops
Side Seams
Princess Seams/ Darts on Front Top
Pleats/ Tucks
Boned Bodices in Formalwear

9. Letting Out Tops
Side Seams
Panels
Boned Bodices in Formalwear

10. Sleeves, Shoulders and Armscyes
When to Say "No!"
Taking up Shoulders
Taking in Sleeves or Sleeves and Side Seams
Lined Suit Jacket Sleeve Hems
Button Down Shirt Cuffs and Plackets

11. Crotch Seams
How to Measure Crotch Seams
Taking in Crotch Seams
Letting out Crotch Seams
Adding Gussets

12. Necklines and Collars
Collar/ Neckline Types
Reshaping Necklines
Collar Adjustments

13. Repairs
Buttons
How to Sew on a Button that has Fallen off or is Loose on a Garment two and Four-Hole Button
Shank Button
Decorative Patches/ Visible Mending
Iron-On Patches
Stitch Witchery/ Fusible Bonding Patches
About Darning
Machine Darning
Hand Darning Zippers
Anatomy of a Zipper
Types of Zippers
When to Replace a Zipper
When to Fix a Zipper/ Replace a Zipper Head
Replacing a Zipper Head on Non-Separating/Closed/ Closed at Both Ends/ Continuous Zippers
Replacing a Zipper Head on for Separating Zippers
When to Replace a Zipper Head
When to Say No
Linings
Replacing or Rethreading Drawstrings
Hook and Loop Tape

Resources
Glossary
Acknowledgements
Index